How to Start an Insect Collection
Building an insect collection is one of the most rewarding ways to deepen your knowledge of entomology. A well-curated collection serves as a permanent reference, a tool for learning identification, and a contribution to scientific knowledge. Museum collections assembled by amateur entomologists have provided invaluable data on species distributions and population changes over decades. Whether you are a student, a naturalist, or simply curious about the insect world, this guide will help you get started.
Legal and Ethical Considerations
Before collecting, be aware that certain species are legally protected in the UK under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. It is an offence to collect species listed on Schedule 5, which includes certain butterflies, beetles, and other insects. Always check the current protected species list. Collect responsibly: take only what you need, avoid collecting from small or isolated populations, and never collect from nature reserves without permission.
Essential Equipment
You do not need expensive equipment to start. The following items will cover most collecting and preservation needs:
| Item | Purpose | Approximate Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Sweep net | Collecting from vegetation | £15–30 |
| Beating tray | Dislodging insects from branches | £10–20 |
| Pooter (aspirator) | Collecting small insects without damage | £5–10 |
| Killing jar | Humanely dispatching specimens | £5–15 |
| Entomological pins (size 1–3) | Mounting specimens | £5–10 per pack |
| Pinning board/foam | Setting and drying specimens | £5–15 |
| Store boxes or drawers | Long-term storage | £15–50 each |
| Hand lens (10×) | Examining specimens | £5–15 |
| Forceps (fine-tipped) | Handling small specimens | £3–8 |
Collecting Techniques
1. Sweep Netting – Swing a sturdy net through long grass, wildflowers, or low shrubs in a figure-of-eight motion. Check the net contents regularly and transfer target specimens to collecting tubes.
2. Beating – Hold a white beating tray beneath a branch and strike the branch sharply with a stick. Insects dislodged from the foliage will fall onto the tray for examination.
3. Pitfall Traps – Sink a cup or jar into the ground so its rim is level with the soil surface. Ground-dwelling beetles, ants, and other insects will fall in. Check traps daily and release non-target catches.
4. Light Trapping – Many moths and other nocturnal insects are attracted to light. A simple mercury vapour or actinic lamp placed near a white sheet will attract a remarkable diversity of species on warm, still nights.
5. Hand Collecting – Many insects can be picked up directly with fingers, forceps, or a pooter. Turning over logs, stones, and bark often reveals hidden species.
6. Malaise Traps – Tent-like structures that intercept flying insects, directing them into a collecting bottle. These are particularly effective for flies and wasps.
Did you know? The largest insect collection in the world is held at the Natural History Museum in London, containing over 34 million specimens. Many of these were collected by amateurs and donated over the past two centuries, demonstrating the enduring contribution of citizen entomologists to science.
Killing and Preservation
Dispatching Specimens
The most common and humane method for killing insects is to place them in a killing jar containing ethyl acetate (nail varnish remover) on a plaster of Paris base, or to freeze them for 24–48 hours. Freezing is widely regarded as the most humane option and is suitable for most species.
Pinning
Most insects larger than 5 mm are mounted by pushing an entomological pin through the body. The standard pinning position depends on the insect order:
- Beetles – Pin through the right elytron (wing case), approximately one-third from the front.
- Butterflies and moths – Pin through the centre of the thorax; spread the wings on a setting board.
- Flies and bees – Pin through the right side of the thorax.
- Bugs – Pin through the scutellum (the triangular plate between the wings).
Micro-Pinning and Card Mounting
Very small insects (under 5 mm) are too delicate for standard pins. Instead, they are glued to small triangular card points using water-soluble adhesive, and the card is then mounted on a standard pin. Alternatively, minute pins (micropins) can be used with a foam staging block.
Fluid Preservation
Soft-bodied insects such as larvae, aphids, and some flies are best preserved in 70–80% ethanol in small glass vials. Specimens preserved in fluid retain their shape better than those that would shrivel if dried.
Labelling
A specimen without data is scientifically worthless. Every pinned specimen must carry at least two labels:
- Data label – Location (ideally with a grid reference or GPS coordinates), date of collection, habitat, collector's name, and collecting method.
- Identification label – Species name, name of the identifier, and date of identification.
Labels should be printed in a small, clear font (typically 3–4 point) on acid-free card and pinned beneath the specimen.
Storage and Maintenance
Dried insect specimens are vulnerable to damage from museum beetles (particularly Anthrenus species), mould, and physical breakage. Store collections in:
- Airtight store boxes or glass-topped drawers lined with plastazote foam.
- A dry, cool environment away from direct sunlight.
- Include naphthalene or paradichlorbenzene moth balls (or modern alternatives) to deter pests.
Key Takeaway
Starting an insect collection requires modest equipment and careful technique. Proper pinning, thorough labelling, and secure storage ensure your specimens remain in good condition and scientifically useful for decades. Always collect ethically and legally, and consider contributing your records to national recording schemes to support insect conservation and research.